Sunday, November 3, 2013

Sunset surrealism

If we come away with anything from all the training we do before coming to a high threat post like Baghdad, it’s that you need to be aware of your surroundings.  And this evening this awareness brought about an almost surreal experience.


The sun had set and the pale purple-blue sky was quickly fading to blackness.  As I rode my bike around the compound, I felt a calm quiet descend over the drone of generators, people and vehicles.  In the distance I saw the red blinking lights on a single huey helicopter as it circled overhead, unusual in that they usually fly in pairs, rarely circle, and generally fly much closer to the ground.   There were two different sets of camouflage personnel carriers with soldiers manning the gun turrets driving through the compound, suggesting a training exercise had just been completed.   Enter the captivating, echoing call to prayer that began on all sides of the compound, but most pronounced in the areas I was riding.  It was as if time was standing still in a movie!  I wasn't scared, but I thought if this was a movie, this is when the rat-a-tat-tat of machine gun fire and an explosion or two would destroy the semblance of peace and calm.  Another helicopter appeared and the two disappeared from view beyond the compound walls, the call to pray stopped, and all of a sudden all the noise and distraction of life on the compound became the usual cacophony of sounds that greet me on my way home from work.

File:Iraqi air force UH-1H II Huey helicopter.JPG

This is like the helicopters that the embassy uses to fly us back and forth to the Baghdad Airport, complete with the soldier sitting in the door with the gun!  When I flew to Baghdad from Amman Jordan, we flew on a 40 passenger prop plane and then had to transfer onto the huey to get to the embassy.  We had to wear PPE (personal protective equipment - helmet and vest) that weighed what felt like a ton!  It was at that point that I thought perhaps I had made a rash decision coming to Baghdad!  Now I am glad I am here.  

Cement bunkers are scattered around the compound so that if there are any incoming rockets or missiles (what IS the difference?) we can run into the nearest shelter.


I know all this may seem a little scary, but in reality, to me it is all reassuring.  I feel quite safe here. With all the violence that is taking place in Iraq, and Baghdad in particular, I have not heard a single gunshot or explosion since I have been here!  I have met people who live outside the International Zone and travel up and down the country on business who have never run into any trouble.  Lucky?  Probably, but it shows that the violence isn't everywhere, and one just needs to use common sense and avoid areas of trouble.  And believe me, confined (I almost said trapped!) within the walls of the compound, we are DEFINITELY avoiding areas of trouble!